buzz ebay

How to spot fake counterfeit Soccer / Football Jersey:Thousands of soccer jerseys are sold on eBay everyday from English premier league to world cup team. Sellers often describe items as Nike, Umbro or Adidas. Sometimes sellers write the name of the brand and sometimes they don’t - but in the picture - you can see the brand logo. There are some easy technique to spot them whether original or fake.Following points will help you to avoid buying fake soccer jersey.1. If the item is on “Buy it now” and the price is below $40, it is likely a fake one. Because no one can sell in loss.2. If it is in auction, watch the number of bids. Read description carefully. Ask seller if he/she can provide a copy of the original receipt with the jersey.3. Be careful to buy a signed jersey, it’s not easy to get a signature from a super star like Beckham or other. So, see if the seller has some other items to sell on his/her listing which include more than one signed jersey. It’s unlikely that someone can get multiple signed jersey from a star.4. Location is irrelevant. Sometimes sellers claim as “UK Seller” or “USA Seller” - it really doesn’t ensure the authenticity of the jersey. Seller may be selling jerseys sitting in Asia. Or he/she have bought fake jersey in wholesale.I hope that it helps.*** I will be glad if you would give your opinion by clicking “Yes” at the bottom of this page if you find this guide useful***

In the film “The color of Money” a movie that just about every Billiard enthuseist has heard of. Tom Cruise and Paul Newman Expose the precious George Balbushka cues to the world. But many dont know anything more than that his cues are worth some good money.

George Balabushka was born in Russia in 1912. He came to America at the age of 12 and lived in New York. George loved playing billiards. He used to take part in tournaments and because of his exposure he came to know renowned contestants and billiard celebrities.

He started out making wooden toys in school for teachers. This offered him the basic skills that he would use later in life crafting pool cues. Later on in his life George started a company that manufactured wooden products. However his middle finger was cut off by an electrical saw accident. Not satisfied at the sight of loosing his finger, George fit himself with a wooden finger. His finger was crafted so well, that even some of his closest friends didnt realize that he had lost his finger.

Besides taking care of his own business, George also helped his friends repair cues. At the same time another cue maker Frank Paradise used his own name to brand his cues. George saw an opportunity to do the same. By the end of 1959 at the age of 47 George made a cues and gave them to his friends as Christmas gifts, he also collected data and feedback on the performance of the cues. Not long afterwards George Balabushka started taking orders for his cued.

From 1959 to 1963, George was churning out 20 to 30 cues a year. George as a simple individual reflected his persoa in his work. George always focused his work on the performance of the cues. During competitions in America, contestans were always discussing and using Balabushka’s cues. It happened a fiew times that two contestants would both use Balabushka’s cues in the same game. Because of this exposure, Balabushka’s cues were getting famous, this led to more sales. The orders were coming in so fast that some were willing to send George an authorized check with the price undefined just to own one of his cues.

If you are lucky enough to have a look at a true Balabuska cue, here are a few distinguishing features.

1. 98% of hus cues use steel joints with 5/16 x 14 screws to attatch the shaft to the butt.

2. The cues use four colored veneers as four-point inlaid forearm, plus some circle or star shaped Mother of Pearl.

3. The Butt Cap is mostly white and plain without any print. The prong part came from Brunswick in the early stage, and then later on they were made by George. In 1966, George got the prong parts from and American company Burton Spain which specialized in making prongs and cues for pool cues. This was until George met another legendary cue maker, Gus Szamboti, from the East coast, the prong parts were acquired from Gus Szamboti utill the day that George died.

4. George Balabushka seldomly used ivory for inlaying, instead he used silver or colored veneers for decoration

5. Balabushka Cues were all 57.5 inches long comparing to a modern 58 inch cue.

Though it is no difficult task to make a Balabushka cue by today’s manufacturing technology, George Balabushka’s knowledge of the cue and his profound knowledge in woodworking has led to his fame and a must-have appeal for all ages.

George Balabushka was elected to the Billiard Congress of America Hall of Fame in 2004

IF YOU FOUND THIS GUIDE HELPFUL PLEASE TAKE THE TIME TO CLICK YES

UPDATED 01/17/08 Just some things to consider before you make a large investment in hopes of making the ball go farther.

I don’t claim to be an expert in the field of softball bats, however I have been playing for about 20 years and I did play-for-pay when I was younger. I think someone should give the new er some tips on buying this type of item from .

Be aware that scamming is alive and well in this catagory as some of these bats reach well above the 300.00 mark. Read some other guides and tips concerning that subject. The one that seems to be the most problem here is the seller that sells alot of small ticket items, then lists several high dollar bats for sale. Another one that has become increasingly popular is the seller listing a one day auction on a high dollar bat, be carefull!! Have they done this before? Do they have good feedback? Use common sense. Remember, PayPal does give some protection, but only if the seller has the money in his/her account.

Remember to check YOUR leagues banned bat list.

Most leagues will follow whatever guidelines are set forth by the sponsoring organization (ASA, USSSA, NSA, etc.) and these can usually be found by checking organizations website (Ebay won’t allow me to insert the link to these pages, but they all ARE available. If you want to see them, just google them)

Some city leagues also have thier own websites and/or written rules and ban lists - so be sure you ask an official.

Don’t be fooled by someones description of the bat - they ARE trying to sell it to you.

One of my favorites is - I added 50 feet (or whatever) to my longest hits

While this might be possible, it is not likey that YOU are going to have the same luck, unless you are going from a cheap aluminum bat to a top of the line composite. BE REALISTIC - nothing is going to help your game MORE then PRACTICE!!

ASK THE SELLER SOME QUESTIONS

When was the bat ORIGINALLY purchased

Most aluminum bats have about a 2-3 year life, the POP factor really starts to fade after that.

Composites are a bit different, as I have seen people using the original freak for three years of consistant use and they seem to retain really good hitting ability.

Was it a TEAM bat or was the seller the only user

bag scratches and the like are going to happen, see if they will send a close-up photo of the end-cap.

On the end-cap, your looking for seperation between the cap and the barrel of the bat, is it loose or still tightly wedged in the barrel. (a very big deal with some composites).

Paint is usually NOT an issue, the same with normal scratches, just asking for a close-up of an area can tell you ALOT.

Is the bat returnable

Most bat manufactuers won’t honor a return without a store reciept

Over the years, this has changed alot, there was a time you could send in a dented bat and have a new one within a week, no reciept, no problem, those days are pretty much gone.

Are there any rattles, cracks etc.

A rattle usually means that the inner barrel is loose and moving around, NOT a good thing.

As of mid 2005 the ASA installed the 98 mph rule

At the same time (or there abouts) USSSA installed the 120mph rule

Both of these rules are pretty silly (I am a pitcher now and still believe it) BUT it does level the playing field ALOT.(Please, this is MY OPINON - not absolute fact!)

If your looking for something HOTTER, check for bats made before 2004, some are still allowed (check your leagues list)

(ADDED 3/9/07) Almost all of the bats that ASA allowed to be grandfathered in are going to be banned starting 1/1/08, this includes the Miken Freak and a couple of the PST models. These bats are really expensive, so is it worth it for just one years use.

SHIPPING

Remember that the ACTUAL shipping cost of a 30 ounce softball bat is around 8 - 10.00 (this is Priority mail WITH tracking but no insurance). If someone is charging more then that, well they are trying to get some extra cash from you.

UPDATED 01/17/08 - I am located pretty central to the entire US (well, as far as postal rates are concerned) and a PROPERLY packaged bat usually runs about 3 pounds. I checked the my figures against the NEW postal rates and the low end (parcel post) is between 7.00 and 8.00. Higher end (priority mail) runs from 8.00 to 9.75 depending on what part of the country.

Just out of curiosity, I checked rates from Portland Oregon to New York and Oregon to Miami Florida

Oregon to N.Y. - 7.93 parcel and 10.55 Priority same prices for Oregon to Miami, Florida - Thats about as cross country as you can get!!

There are other add-ons like insurance 1.65 for the first 50.00 and could add up to 3.00 depending on final price - but give the buyer a choice

As far as tracking goes - a PayPal necessity - use PayPal shipping and on ANY package, it is .18, thats right 18 cents and most of the time (when shipping Priority mail, its FREE)

The post office has several diffent priority mail containers that will work - my favorite one is the triangle box, and they are all free.

If you are shipping the bat, remember to use bubble wrap or peanuts to take up the extra space in the box.

It might sound silly, but most bats suffer from scratches just taking them out of a bat bag.

There are some really great deals available here on Ebay, just try to get an idea of the one you want before you start bidding. I hope you find the one your looking for!!

Finally, before you purchase the bat you want, google the name of the bat. Chances are really good that you might even get a BETTER deal then what is on Ebay at the time. I have been able to do this a couple of times (A 30 ounce PST on clearance for 200.00 and shipping was included) and I have found some good deals on Ebay (a gently used Anderson rocket tech 32 ounce for under 100.00). Hope this helps someone.

If it helped, say so below - if not, let me know how I can make it better.

Carl Sagen was talking about billions and billions of stars, but he could have been talking about used golf balls on . There are a lot of them, it’s a buyers market. I see prices on way lower than most flea markets and resale sports shops, not to mention the delivered to your door convienience.

The best advise for golf balls or any item is to read the sellers feedback BEFORE you place a bid. Many buyers don’t look untill after there is a problem. If the seller has several negative feedbacks, look out. Lots of mutual retractions are also a red flag. Read the tone of comments from buyers, you can learn a lot.

How much are used golf balls worth? Just like used cars, their cost when new and current condition are the factors. A nice Caddilac or and old Chevy? So if you know the price of new balls you can figure value based on the condition.

The Titleist Pro V 1 and V1x are the MOST sought after and MOST fragile ball in golf. If you insist on them, be aware they scuff easily, turn off white quickly with age and abosorb water when exposed to the elements. Many companies repaint and restamp them, usually remembering to print the “recycled” disclaimer on them. Most used balls can still look brand new, but most $40 a dozen balls just don’t look new for very long.

The A’s rating system is most common on . An A grade being the worst, AA being OK, AAA almost new and anything with AAAA or more? should be like new in condition and worth about one half their cost new. You can deduct accordingly as you go down the A scale. It’s pretty subjective, so once again look to their feedback history to judge for accurate descriptions and pictures.

Some balls are not even worth the shipping fees. has cracked down on excessive S&H fees, something that happens a lot with used golf balls. toddpelotas charges $12 S&H for 100 balls to any US destination. This includes insurance and delivery confirmation. Don’t pay more than $12 per 100 balls for domestic S&H. Delivery should be confirmed and the buyer satisfied with the product before the sellers obligations are completed. Just like the movie Miracle on 42nd St.

Good luck bidding. There are some great deals for golf balls on . Remember, you are going to loose them soon enough, so don’t pay too much!

Are you looking to purchase an airbrush for the first time but find the choices mind-boggling?.. Join the crowd!..

I felt the same way a few years ago.. Now I have 4 airbrushes and still counting!..Why?.. Because I didnt know then what I DO know now..And Im happy to share my Trial & Error knowledge with you..

I paint & sell custom made wooden fishing lures here on eBay.. I needed a preferrably easy to use airbrush, yet one that produced quality results too..

Thru trial & error I settled on one that meets my needs quite well..

First thing when choosing an airbrush is: dont be tempted to buy a single action airbrush because of the lower pricing..You WILL BE SORRY.. I wont bother to discuss their attributes or rather their lack there of..

Find a double-action airbrush you can afford to start out with.. Some of the top quality brands are Iwata, Badger,Paasche, and Aztek.. Expect to pay a minumum of $75-$250 for a good one.. Most use an interchangable system of needles about 5″ long, combined with a corresponding nozzle tip for different spray pattern widths & paint types…And most are not the easiest things in the World to master, especially needle changing.. Except for Aztek, which is explained further down.

Most use the gravity feed: (paint cup on top), or the syphon feed: (paint bottle on bottom or side of airbrush), or they have both methods available..

The gravity feed systems will probably drive you crazy.. The paint cup is on top the airbrush & almost always blocks your view when painting up close as I am always doing.. Artists prefer the Gravity feed because you can turn down the air pressure, add more thinner, and create finer lines..

And the syphon feed models, well, the glass bottles are usually so bulky you can not hold the airbrush steady.. For example the large Badger/Paasche glass bottle is about half the size of a coffee cup!.. That is quite bulky when filled..

I own a Paasche VLS, a Badger Cresendo, a Aztek A4709, and finally the Aztek A7778..

Luckily for me I invested in the Aztek A4709, a great beginners & Pro user airbrush…. Later on I purchased the A7778 model..

Originally, I knew nothing about Aztek products & figured I’d be throwing it away in disgust, but I couldn’t have been more wrong..

Aztek has several models, both single & double action, but believe me, you dont want the lesser single-action models regardless of the brand or the price..

If you plan on trying an Aztek, buy the A470 ($75), A4709 ($95), or A7778 ($150 ) models, all double-action.. They are basically the same, inside and out, with the following exceptions: Each series number denotes how much, or how little an amount of extra accessories you will recieve in your new airbrush kit..

The A7778( $150) has a sweet metal casing that holds up to paint solvents much better..

Note: prices I listed are average cost online in reputable stores at the time of this posting.. All Aztek models are plastic except the A7778.. I suppose thats why most Pro’s frown on Aztek, believing they’re cheap plastic junk, but thats hardly the case..

The color cups load from the side, and are a tough but light weight plastic.. The glass bottles also load from the side & are small, non-bulky.. The airbrush body is a nice comfortable, hand fitted design.. And it really does fit perfect in your hand, nicely designed.

Heres why I recommend this product:..No big needles to deal with!..And its exceptionally easy to use & master.. The needle, about 1/2″ long, is inside the nozzle!..The entire needle-nozzle assembly screws into the front of the airbrush.. When its time to clean the nozzle just unscrew it, its finger tight, & drop it in some solvent for a few minutes..

You do not need to actually change nozzles to change your spray band width .. If you use the fine size nozzle you can achieve most any spray width you’ll need.. You only need adjust your air pressure and practice using your double-action control.. The airbrush also has a control near the rear that adjusts spray band width.. I primarily use the fine nozzle and can spray from 1/32″ to 1/2″ band width just by using the built-in adjustments on the airbrush itself.. I use the medium nozzle for base coating and clear coat.. I personally have found no use for the several other nozzle sizes available thru Aztek..

The Aztek cleans up really easy too.. I keep a spare syphon bottle with thinner nearby & when I change colors, just pop on the thinner bottle, spray a few seconds, pop on a color cup, & back to work I go.. Complete color changes in about 10-15 seconds..

Its a good idea to disassemble the nozzle and soak thoroughly in a solvent during downtime.. It comes apart easily, a total of 4 parts: the outside nozzle casing, an inner casing which holds the last 2 parts, which are the short needle & a spring that slides over the needle..Its far less complicated than it sounds..and by the way, the entire nozzle assembly is only about 1/2″ or 1.35cm in length!.. It is not 4″-5″ long like the “other” brands.

If you’re using waterbased paints use warm water to clean up.. With enamels, I use lacquer thinner for clean-up.. I also use lacquer thinner to thin my enamel paints with great success.. I also spray a small amount of laquer thinner between color changes just to clean the nozzle out quickly..

But remember: DO NOT soak your airbrush or nozzle over night in lacquer thinner.. I do use laquer to clean up after usage but only soaking for 5 minutes.. Laquer thinner cleans almost any paint out very quick.. No need to soak over night..

I for one am an extremely happy Aztek user & recommend it to everyone who questions me about my work.. And my Badger & Paasche, well they’re in the closet & my Aztek is in my workshop!..You can see my stuff here on eBay, all my custom lures are done w/the Aztek..

All the above info is just my opinion.. You can choose any brand you like.. All the companies I mentioned make excellent products.. For me personally, the Aztek takes the cake.. Thanks for reading my guide & I hope its been of some help to you..

PLEASE TAKE NOTE: when airbrushing, always follow the manufacturers safety warnings on the paint and thinner labels!.. Spray in a well ventilated area, use the proper breathing apparatus at all times, and use disposable gloves to prevent unnecessary skin contact with paint and solvents..NEVER spray paint, or use solvents near open flame!!!..

EPOXY CLEARCOATING: just for an extra HELP note, if you’re thinking of using EPOXY clearcoats please read on:

Epoxies are difficult coatings but well worth the effort.. Most lure buyers prefer & even demand epoxy coatings on their lures or they wont buy your product.. If you clearcoat an item with epoxy, make certain it cures 100%!!!.. Generally a semi -thick coating is needed for fishing lures.. Tho the word thick can be decieving as we are talking about 1/128″ -1/64″ as being thick!.. 2-3 times the thickness of a sheet of paper(2-3mil) is usually sufficient.. Acheive this thru multiple layers not one nasty thick coat!.. 3-5 thin layers is better than one thick coat that will never cure.. A heat lamp helps also.. I apply 3-5 thin coats over a 3 day period then leave cure for 2-3 days before attempting to install hardware.. I also made a rotating drying wheel to make the coating dry even & smooth, which is a MUST for epoxy..

USING EPOXY: I’ve tried many products, Top Secret, Nu-Lustre55, Devcon 2 Ton, and others.. I stuck with Devcon 2 Ton, also known as D2T.. Devcon makes several epoxy products, most are fast drying, 5 mins or less! ( too short of a pot life ) and nearly useless as they set-up too quickly to be properly applied.. However, D2T has a 15 min pot life so you have more time to mix & apply.. Epoxy should be applied in temp ranges of 70f-80f.. It it is too thick just warm it up a little( place epoxy tube in a pan of hot water ) or thin mildly with acetone or denatured alcohol.. I prefer denatured alcohol myself.. Rotate freshly coated lures for 30 mins then hang the lure for 3 hrs.. Dry to touch at that point, but I dont consider handling or attaching hardware for at least 12 hrs.. Use disposable brushes for applying the epoxy or your fingers protected with surgical gloves for application works great, my preferred method..

If you get air bubbles in the wet epoxy coating which definitely will happen: huff your breathe on small areas of the lure until you have huffed the entire lure surface.. Just like when you want to steam up a mirror or window with your breathe.. This will pop the air bubbles.. Some insist its the carbon, others say its the heat.. You can use heat lamps to expedite drying the epoxy or just let it go at room temps above 70f..

ROTATING DRYING MACHINE: These can be made in many ways, but they should be slow rotators, in the 3-6rpm range.. Ive used Christmas light display rotators, motors off used BBQ rotisseries, and most recently made a heavy duty rotator for large Musky-Saltwater lures from a 1750rpm motor with twin gear reducer units mounted in tandem.. But most luremakers dont need such an elaborate setup as that!.. Attach alligator clips or similar holding clips to a wood or metal wheel.. Wheel attached to shaft.. Screw luremaking eye screws in the lure body to use as paint sticks.. Put the screw eyes in the alligator clips to hold lure on the wheel.. Quite simple..

I decided to add this response message which Ive sent to many people already..Perhaps it will answer some of the questions swimming about in your head right now.

I dont make the drying-rotating devices for people nor do I know of anyone producing them.. Everyone makes their own from scrap–not a dificult task..You only need a rotator if you plan to use epoxy clearcoating really….

I dont recommend the small airbrush sized compressors as theyre very inadequate & have no holding tank usually..Without a holding tank they run constant, run hot, & have a short life..I burned up 2 in one year before buying a 10 Gal, 1.5HP compressor.. You can use larger ones than that too.. Just be sure to add a regulator( 25psi-40psi is good range setting ) & an inline moisture trap to your compressor hose & also a small inline trap to your smaller airbrush hose if you can.. Water gets in the lines, then in your paints & ruins your work if you dont have at least one good moisture trap ( I use 2 traps ).. You wont be painting long without a trap.. Water will spit out with your paint & spider web all over your work.. That is true with any brand airbrush you may use without a moisture trap!

Nozzle choice depends entirely on what you plan to paint.. I only stock 2 sizes for myself: Fine Line & Medium which are Aztek color coded nozzles of TAN ( fine )& TORQUOISE( medium ) or however its spelled ( light blue! ).. Those 2 nozzles are usually great for most all airbrushing.. Using the built-in flow adj towards rear of the Aztek brush will give you plenty of spray width variations with just the 2 nozzles I mentioned..

Paint choices all depend on your preference really.. Waterbased are less dangerous, less toxic, but I use enamels & lacquers.. Theres something about putting waterbased paints on fishing lures that rub me the wrong way!.. Tho many luremakers do use waterbase paints so its your choice.. Createx sells a good waterbase ready mix airbrush paint.. SpazStix sells an awesome ready mix lacquer paint I use.. Testors has Model Master enamels that I use alot of.. You’ll need to add thinner to Testor paints ( 50-50 works for me ).. All those MFG’s are easily found in Search.. Hobby stores, both local & online are easy places to get airbrush paints as well as craft outlets like Pat Catans..

Hobby Lobby, Pat Catans & Hobbytown USA, my 3 favorites, are all online too.. Pat sells a huge selection of Createx in their stores..

Thank you for viewing my Guide, hope its been interesting and helpful… Dont forget to submit a positive vote for my Guide~

My large drying wheel….. Rotates 6 large lures on outter ring & 12 smaller lures on inner ring..